IF YOU COOK spaghetti in a big pot of water, drain it, then toss it with sauce, you are pouring a lot of flavor down the drain, says Vendemmia chef Brian Clevenger. “The trick to good pasta is cooking it in the sauce

Pasta with Tomato-Basil Sauce

The sauce:

3 ounces extra virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic, smashed

Kosher salt and black pepper to taste

2 small white onions, diced

1 28-ounce can high-acid plum tomatoes, such as Muir Glen Organic, Redpack or Red Gold

1 teaspoon red chili flakes

2 ounces picked basil leaves